I remember when I started learning to surf, I would do so much research on it. From how to be a better surfer, to the best places to surf. The one thing I never thought I would really enjoy was surf photography. Make no mistake, going through the images of all those really cool aerial shots would get me really hyped, but it would get me hyped for surfing, not the photography. Of course there was a part of me that went "I wanna get that shot too, and then put it as a profile picture and look really cool", I think that goes the same for everyone who starts surfing, or any sport to be honest. So I did what many people did, I got myself a go pro. Now working with a go pro has it's pros and cons, you can get some really crazy shots with that thing, but it's limited in what it can do.
When I went to Bali this year, I didn't think too much about wanting to shot surfers. All I knew was that I wanted to shot something. I prepped my gear, and got myself to Bali. I didn't know where to shot, so I just went to the beach we normally go, and just shot there, I got up at 6 am, all my stuff packed the night before, got myself to the beach and set up. After that first session, that was it, I never thought I would enjoy myself that much shooting other people surf. It was like they were putting on a performance, sometimes really amazing ones, sometimes they were just really funny, and I was there to capture it all. From then on I knew this was something I could actually pursue in a more serious way.
Here are some of my more favorite ones. You can view the rest in the surf gallery.
Draw me like one of your french girls.
That feeling when someone drops in on your wave.
One of the best longboarders I've seen.
carving the wall.
Nose rider.